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Maintenance of the mower motor

Without having to go into a mechanical session, a minimum greenworks lawn mower engine service is at your fingertips. Annual maintenance, for domestic use of the mower, you will prevent breakdowns and ensure easy starting. Enjoy this interview to visually check the fuel inlet hose (engine) that should not be cracked or split.

Air filter (engine)

  • Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions to open the cover of the air filter and note the reference filter for a future purchase.
  • On the engine, cleaning the air filter is recommended every ten hours of operation.
  • Replacing the air filter annually is strongly advised.
  • A clean air filter is essential to engine starting. It limits its fuel consumption and emission pollution.

Candle (engine)

  • A spark plug wrench is always present in the tool cover of your mower. You should use the one provided because it is designed to switch between engine fins.
  • Depending on the number of hours of annual mowing, you should clean the spark plug every year and replace every two years at least.
  • The cleaning is made in the particular metal brush (clean candles) and helps rid the two combustion deposits from the electrodes.
  • A quick check of the spacing of the two electrodes can be made to hold a candle or passing thumbnail of identical thickness to the average spacing of 0.07 mm.
  • Enjoy the candle is output to note his reference that must be respected absolutely when replacing.
  • Clean cloth to the thread of the plug and socket before replacing it in firmly screwed, but gently.
  • Beware when this intervention that no particles fall into the engine through the spark plug hole.
  • A candle in good condition is essential for engine starting and limiting its fuel consumption and emission pollution.

Engine oil (engine)

  • An engine oil dipstick is always present on a four-stroke driving force. Most often, this gauge also serves as a filler cap. The manufacturer’s manual tells you how to use the mode of indicators, the engine oil type, and frequency of oil changes.
  • In general, the control of the engine oil is cold engine on the flat before each mowing session:
  • Unscrew the oil filler cap, remove it and clean it.
  • Control is done by placing the filler cap in its seat without screwing it and reading on the dipstick the oil level. It should be between the low and high levels, within the hatched area.
  • Always make sure there is enough oil and never too much.
  • If you need to add oil, take the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer or, failing a multigrade engine oil 10W40 gasoline four times.
  • To drain:
  • Run the motor to warm it up a bit, and stop it.
  • Disconnect the spark plug wire, unscrew the drain plug located on the side of the muffler and lay the mower on this side over a drain pan.
  • When used oil is completely past, you can reset the mower flat and tighten the drain plug. If necessary, replace the seal on the drain plug with a new one, but make sure a fiber gasket is in place.
  • Sometimes the drain plug is he also used to fill and dipstick, only, in this case, it has no seal.
  • Fill the crankcase with fresh oil respecting the quantity specified by the engine manufacturer, otherwise, proceed by successive small fillings controlling the gauge.
  • In general, an oil sump contains between 0.5 and 0.7 liters of multigrade engine oil for gasoline 10W40 four times.

Maintenance mower wheels

The wheels of the mower are especially subject to fouling. The grass, dust, and grass clippings are glued to the mechanisms and ultimately impede the progress of the machine and forbid good cutting height adjustment.

  • Cleaning after each mowing session is essential.
  • You can use this effect to a fountain and even a high-pressure cleaner to loosen the agglomerated particles.
  • Do not use any grease that comes to fix dust and with it would form a kind of lapping compound will damage the wheels.
  • Spray rather on the wheel axles of the mower a particular anti-adhesive for a mower or failing a standard waterproof lubricant (penetrating oil).

Maintenance of the mower blade

Whatever the engine and type of blade on your mower, the blade or blades are the elements that ensure a clean cut of the grass. Quality Mowing is a cut that sharply contrasts the blade of grass without tearing or grinding. It guarantees the health of your lawn to avoid the proliferation of fungi and fungal diseases.

  • To ensure the sharpness of the blade, you always choose a good quality blade (see mower blade) you affûterez at least once a year.
  • Always wear gloves, tilt the mower respecting the recommended position (see mower housing) and remove the blade by unscrewing the nut.
  • Sharpening will be in the fresh lime by the bevel, in filing only in one direction, from inside edge outwardly in one or two passes.
  • Check on this occasion that the blade is balanced.
  • Spraying a standard waterproof lubricant (penetrating oil) is necessary.
  • Replace the blade by the mounting direction, the position of the shear pins (if present) and any flange washers.
  • A twisted blade, worn or punctured should be changed.

Maintenance of grass collector

If you have opted for a mower equipped with a bagger, you must empty the regularly during mowing and always make sure the breathable fabric and the ventilation holes of a rigid tray are clean. The good filling of the container is ensured by the air blown by the blade which causes the grass in the tray and then escapes through these vents.

Flexible or rigid, a collection box will always be completely emptied at the end of the season, hosted or high-pressure cleaner (inside and outside) and then dried in the sun returned to kill any germs of fungi and fungal diseases.

Maintenance of the belt

Guarantees the transmission to the wheels or blades of the mower or belts are wear parts that should not hesitate to replace them before breakage. Before each session mowing and at least annually, you will check visually mainly seeking his state in abnormal wear or nicks that indicate an impending case. Replacement or belts are always shown in the manufacturer’s manual. It involves the extraction and replacement with an identical belt.

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